Daniel Clifford

The two-Michelin-star chef of Cambridge’s Midsummer House tells Alicia Miller about what inspires his cooking – from San Sebastián to southern France – and shares his perfect after-work supper

The first time I saw food differently

was when we went to the south of France when I was 15. None of us spoke any French, and my mum ordered what we thought were bacon sandwiches. What turned up instead was bread with air-dried ham – a sort of Parma ham – which I had never seen before. I thought to myself, ‘this is pretty nice’.

I was really surprised by the restaurants in Las Vegas.

I was expecting everything to be very American but there are a lot of European chefs over there – Gordon Ramsay is huge! Next I really want to go to Japan, and to Thailand too – I’ve never been to either and Asian food is something I know very little about.

In San Sebastián, they eat in a lovely way.

You can go to ten different tapas restaurants in one night and each is different. At one, I just had sautéed ceps with parsley – perfect. At another I had elvers, baby eels, which I’ve always wanted to try. But my best ever meal? Michel Bras (https://www.bras.fr/en) in Laguiole is up there – it was a career changer for me, seeing how Michelin food could be so simple yet so tasty.

My New Year’s resolution

was to visit all of the two-Michelin- starred restaurants in the UK. So far I’ve made it to Whatley Manor (https://www.whatleymanor.com/) and Dinner (https://www.dinnerbyheston.com/). They all stood out – at Dinner it was the pigeon dish with an amazing mash; at Whatley Manor a foie gras mousse with teriyaki. Next I’m visiting Le Gavroche (http://www.le-gavroche.co.uk) and I can’t wait.

The Dead Hippie burger at Meat Liquor

is worth the train fare from Cambridge on its own. When I come to London I almost always have lunch there (https://meatliquor.com/). I love the concept – all walks of life go there, and the atmosphere is great.

I’m not much of a cocktail guy,

my go-to drink is vodka and cranberry, which I drank up in Manchester House’s bar – it’s part of Aiden Byrne’s new Manchester restaurant. It’s beautiful. I did a kitchen shift while I was there (http://www.manchesterhouse.uk.com/).

When I get the chance to eat out near home

there’s Yippee Noodles (http://yippeenoodlebar.co.uk/) on Kings Street in Cambridge. I have the chicken noodle soup when I go, and my kids love it too.

When I get home from a long shift

all I want is a cheese and salad cream sandwich. I put crisps in it too. My partner gets upset and says it’s not right that I should be eating something like that after cooking nice food all day. But it’s in that moment that I’m at my happiest.

Get Premium access to all the latest content online

Subscribe and view full print editions online... Subscribe