Gourmet boltholes
HOTEL DES ORMES
Normandy, France
Rebbeca Twomey visits the Normandy coast
Tucked away in the rustic north-western corner of Normandy is the quintessentially French coastal town of Barneville. Just a stone’s throw from striking sandy beaches hides the Hotel des Ormes – a relatively undiscovered, charming abode and restaurant that prides itself on serving fresh, local food. The living and dining rooms, and 12 bedrooms provide a showcase for the interior design talents of the hotel’s co-owner, Flavia De Mello. Her choice of neutral grey and beige tones, crisp fabrics and black and white nautical photographs combines a rustic seaside atmosphere with a stylish understanding of modern comforts, successfully creating an understated elegance. For an extra touch of glamour, take your aperitif in the picturesque garden, lovingly transformed by famed local gardener, Guillaume Pellerin. His expertise has been recruited at Kew Gardens, and his own botanical gardens at Chateau de Vauville (jardin-vauville.fr) are well worth a visit. However, although breathtaking, the gardens are no competition for the exquisite delights afforded by dinner. The culinary creativity of head chef Anthony Riche has astounded French critics after he was plucked from the nearby Michelin-starred restaurant, La Marine, to join Hotel des Ormes at the tender age of 27. His travels to Martinique and Guadeloupe have inspired a menu that includes escalope of pan-fried foie gras and asparagus velouté, succulent lobster, cooked to perfection, and rack of lamb, whose flavour is enhanced by being reared on farmland nourished by saltwater. For dessert, the chocolate soufflé with ginger ice cream is to die for, but to truly dine the Normandy way, opt for the apples with cream of Calvados – complete dining decadence. Of course, it wouldn’t be a proper French meal if you didn’t gorge on cheese. The regional variety La Trappe has a smooth, creamy taste and the warm Camembert is a delightfully oozing accompaniment to fresh bread.
Foodie diversion: Sample the morning’s catch of fresh oysters at Bar le Noroit (10 Pace du Docteur Auvret).
Details: Hotel des Ormes, Promenade Barbey d’Aurevilly, 50270 Barneville-Carteret, Normandy (00 33 02 33 52 23 50; hoteldesormes.com). Double room with breakfast and dinner from £200.
Come here for: a weekend by the seaside exploring Normandy. Enjoy a bracing stroll along the rugged coastline or, if you would prefer to take it easy, spend time relaxing in the hotel’s pretty garden.
See the August/September issue of Food and Travel for more gourmet bolthole recommendations
