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Bangkok - Thailand

The temples may be impressive, but the best thing about Thailand’s bustling capital is its street food scene. Alicia Miller eats her way from Chatuchak to Ban Nam Puen.

Travel Time 11hrs 30min

Why go?

Characterised by its concrete high-rises and towering temples, neon-clad nightlife districts and pulsating markets, Bangkok is the gateway to southeast Asia for many travellers. It may be the original backpacker hangout, but move away from Khao San Road and you’ll see that the city has a sophisticated side too, found in glossy new hotels and designer shops. Aside from viewing the magnificent golden temples, come here to eat – often, well and inexpensively – as Bangkok is the world’s street food capital.

What to do

Though only a couple of hundred years old, Bangkok’s historic centre, Phra Nakhon (‘Holy City’), has a solid roster of sights. The most prominent of these are Wat Phra Kaew – the city’s most sacred Buddhist temple which houses the precious emerald Buddha – and Rattanakosin Island, home to the spectacular Grand Palace. You can sail by the latter on one of the many boat tours, puttering along the Chao Phraya river, the iconic waterway that has contributed to this city’s ‘Venice of the East’ nickname. Thonburi, on the west riverbank, was Thailand’s 18th-century capital and plays to the Venetian image; think mazes of waterways weaving between teak stilt houses and wats (temples). Dusit, the city’s royal quarter, is dominated by sprawling Dusit Park, an estate with mansions, museums and the world’s largest golden teak building, Wang Vimanmek. In contrast, Siam – the fashion and art quarter – is the hub of modern Bangkok. Come here for galleries and cutting-edge Thai style from clothing to homewares. But if it’s just shopping you’re after, head to the sprawling weekend Chatuchak market. Over 15,000 stalls offer almost anything you can imagine. Even if you have no intention of buying, a wander through the alleyways taking in the sights and smells is fascinating. The Chinese population here is significant – exploring the dynamic tangle of streets that make up Bangkok’s Chinatown is a memorable experience.

Where to stay

The city has its fair share of glam hotels and brand spanking new The Siam (00 66 2206 6999, thesiamhotel.com) is no exception. Located on the banks of the Chao Phraya, it’s styled in a monochrome-meets-classic Thai look and houses a luxurious spa. For the more budget-conscious, the romantic Arun Residence (00 66 2221 9158/9, arunresidence.com) is also located right on the river, and has six charming rooms with balconies. The Eugenia (00 66 2259 9011, theeugeniabangkok.com) consists of 12 suites in a 19th-century white mansion. It all feels very colonial with its ageing library and the stuffed animal heads that bedeck the walls.

Where to eat and drink

Bangkok is the city that never stops eating – between the markets, which are brimming day and night, and the multitude of street stalls, you’d be hard pressed to find a better place for good food on the cheap. Check out what locals are ordering to get a feel for what’s best at each stall. There might be many options on offer, but chances are the crowds are flocking there for one speciality dish – whether it’s fried chicken or green curry. There’s plenty to try at Chatuchak market, but Bang Nam Pheung floating market is also a colourful experience where you can sample all sorts of exotic delicacies. On the traditional restaurant front, Chote Chitr (00 66 222 140 82) has been around for the better part of a century, and fills its few tables with hungry punters after red curry tiger prawns and grilled aubergine salad. Need a break from the hustle and bustle? Australian chef David Thompson has an outpost of his London restaurant Nahm in the refined environs of the COMO Metropolitan hotel (00 66 2625 3388, comohotels.com). One of his former employees has opened Bo.Lan (00 66 2260 2962, bolan.co.th), another upscale Thai option which also runs cookery workshops. The French-Thai menu at Café Siam (00 66 2671 0030), feels befitting of the 1920s home in which it’s based and is a nice spot for an intimate meal.

Time running out?

Enjoy sweeping city views on fair-weather evenings at Vertigo TOO (banyantree.com). Located 61 floors up, it’s one of the world’s highest open-air bars.

Map

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the Thai baht (THB). Bangkok is six hours ahead of GMT. The flight time from London is around 11 and a half hours.

Getting There

Thai Airways (thaiairways.co.uk) flies direct from London Heathrow to Bangkok daily.
British Airways (ba.com) flies to Bangkok frequently from London Heathrow.

Resources

Tourism Thailand (tourismthailand.org) provides information on where to visit, what to see, and how to travel to Bangkok.

Average daily temperatures and rainfall

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
Min Temp181817141198911131517
Max Temp262625221916161720222325
mm344333232232

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