Mittlere Bruecke Weihnachten1

Basel - Switzerland

Straddling the French and German borders is a quaint Swiss city bursting at the seams with museums, galleries and a vibrant annual carnival, says Alicia Miller.

Travel Time 1hrs 40min

Why go?

In the midst of multilingual, multicultural Switzerland sits Basel, a microcosm of the cosmopolitan country, with three railway stations – two of which belong to the city but lie beyond the nearby French and German borders. Nonetheless, the people and culture here are very Swiss, and art and museum enthusiasts would be hard-pressed to find a more accommodating city. Pinned as the cultural heart of Switzerland, between February and March the city hosts its three-day Carnival (Fasnacht), which sees bands celebrating in the streets with residents and visitors alike.

What to do

The twisting, cobbled alleyways of Basel’s Old Town date back to the 15th century and make for an enchanting walk. Start by taking in the view from the 13th-century Spalen Gate, one of the old city entrances, then stroll from the Marktplatz and the ornate, bold red City Hall to the weathered sandstone walls and colourful tiled roof of the giant cathedral. Visit the atmospheric cloisters and the tomb of Erasmus of Rotterdam, then hop on the Münster Fähre, a small ferry service that crosses the Rhine; on the opposite bank, follow the river east until you reach the Solitudepark. By the park, the Museum Tinguely (tinguely.ch) is unmissable for fans of the Swiss metal sculptor Jean Tinguely, but more mainstream art is found at the Kunstmuseum Basel (kunstmuseumbasel.ch), with a rich collection of Renaissance, Impressionist and 20th-century artworks. This small city has nearly 40 other museums to choose from – each with specialities that include toys, paper and pharmaceutical history – but don’t miss Fondation Beyeler (beyeler.com), a short tram ride from the centre. Here you’ll discover a superb collection of 200 pieces of classic modernism, with works by Monet, Cezanne, van Gogh, Picasso, Warhol, Lichtenstein and Bacon. Basel’s artistic spirit spills onto the streets with its 170 uniquely styled drinking fountains that are dotted throughout the city; some are centuries old, while others are newer – the steely mechanics of the Tinguely Fountain are particularly enthralling.

Where to stay

Der Teufelhof (00 41 61 261 10 10, teufelhof.com) contains a hotel, gallery, two restaurants, wine shop, theatre, coffee shop and bar, sprawling though two inter-connecting, historical houses. Tucked right into the Old Town, the location is prime, and the funky rooms feel rightly suited to Basel’s vibrant artistic scene. Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois (00 41 61 260 50 50, lestroisrois.com) is a grand old five-star dame perched on the Rhine; come here if you crave opulence and formality, especially in its three restaurants (one has a couple of Michelin stars).

Where to eat and drink

From historic, long-standing traditional eateries to modern, trendy restaurants, Basel has plenty of culinary establishments to choose from. Pause for a pre-dinner drink – perhaps a generous glass of Swiss wine – at Restaurant Schlüsselzunft (00 41 61 261 20 46, schluesselzunft.ch); its former life as a baker’s guildhall explains its eclectic interior. Cantina Don Camillo (00 41 61 693 05 07, cantinadoncamillo.ch) offers Mediterranean dishes in a congenial atmosphere in the old Warteck brewery; staff are friendly, and there is a rooftop terrace. For pizza-like Swiss flatbreads, head to Restaurant Kohlmanns (00 41 61 225 93 93, kohlmanns.ch); its oaky interiors and collection of wine barrels add atmosphere by the bucketful. Feast on fresh Italian dishes at Acqua (00 41 61 564 66 66, acquabasilea.ch); Zum Goldenen Sternen (00 41 61 272 16 66, sternenbasel.ch) serves hearty dishes such as deer with a walnut and wine sauce. Bar Café des Arts (00 41 61 273 57 37, desarts.ch) is a stylish place to sip a cocktail and soak up some jazz. Sweet tooths are appeased at Confiserie Schiesser (00 41 61 261 60 77, confiserieschiesser.ch), which has been located in Marktplatz since 1870. It is known for its Läckerli, a popular gingerbread-style biscuit.

Time running out?

Tuck into local pastries or cheeses at the daily (Monday to Saturday) food market in Marktplatz.

Map

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the Swiss Franc. Basel is an hour ahead of GMT and a one-hour 40 minute flight from London, followed by a one-hour 15-minute train journey.

Getting There

Swiss (0845 601 0956, swiss.com) has daily flights to Zurich from Heathrow, London City, Birmingham and Manchester.
EasyJet (easyjet.com) flies from Gatwick, Luton and Manchester.

Resources

Basel Tourism (00 41 61 268 6868, basel.com) and
Switzerland Tourism (00 800 100 200 30, myswitzerland.com) provide practical information on visiting.

Average daily temperatures and rainfall

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
Min Temp-1-124811141311720
Max Temp2381216192222181263
mm282334443322

Get Premium access to all the latest content online

Subscribe and view full print editions online... Subscribe