Why go?

Not one place on Earth can lay claim to the heritage of Luxor. Nearly every tradition we abide by, adhere to and hold in high regard stems from ancient Egypt and to understand it, you have to go. The best thing about it all? More treasures are still being uncovered. Just last December, a skeleton of our ancestors dating back half a million years was discovered in the Nile basin; a month before, the tomb of a pharaoh king from the 19th Egyptian dynasty (1200BC) was excavated by Italian archeologists in the Valley of the Kings. In a radius of a few miles, you can drink up history that spans every great civilization, from Egyptian to Greek and Roman. The Nile is the lifeblood that’s fed all of these and the history of each stems from sites around Luxor.

What to do

First up, secure yourself an English-speaking guide. Sure, guidebooks give a glancing look, but for £20 a day, you can hire a specialist who is able to decipher each hieroglyphic, delivering information with a passion that can only come from having spent a lifetime (and four years at university) studying the region. Food and Travel recommends Peter Nashaat Tours for day trips, restaurant recommendations and beyond, 00 20 12 0503 5657. Spend a day each on the East and West Banks of the Nile. The East, where the sun rises, represents life, with temples celebrating the tenure of each ruling pharaoh. The West, where the sun sets, plays host to the gilded resting places of the dead, steeped in history, myth and magic. On the East Bank, start at Karnak Temple (entry £5), the largest religious structure ever built, set over 80 hectares and a site of pilgrimage for over 4,000 years. You have to see the 20m-high obelisks to experience its true majesty. Then take the 2km journey to Luxor Temple (£4), which has since been used by Christians and Muslims as a place of worship. Seeing basilica alongside minaret and obelisk is a rare sight indeed. The West Bank is home to Valley of the Kings (£10 for six tombs), where 63 burial chambers remain near-perfectly preserved with original carvings and dramatic colours on the walls. Perhaps most famously, it’s home to the tomb of Tutankhamun, discovered by Briton Howard Carter in 1922. The mysterious deaths of people connected with the excavation fuelled theories of a curse, spawning a franchise of movies. Move on to the Colossus of Memmom, two 23m-high, 1,000-tonne statues guarding the valley. Do avoid hawkers trying to sting you. If you’re invited to visit the rock-carving family who helped discover and build the tombs, just say ‘no’. If you’ve still got the energy, squeeze in a round at the Royal Valley Golf Club, www.golfluxor.com, a beautiful course carved out of the desert.

Where to stay

The five-star Hilton Luxor Resort & Spa, 00 20 95 2374 933, www.hiltonluxor.com, is the finest in the area and arguably the best in Egypt. Amazing spa facilities and infinity pools make the most of the Nile-side location. Sofitel Winter Palace, 00 20 95 238 0425, www.sofitel.com, was built in 1886 with a British colonial design, and was the winter residence of the Egyptian royal family. Beautiful and steeped in history, its rooms are a little tired, though for Victoriana opulence it can’t be beaten.

Where to eat and drink

Meze is king, and lunch the best meal of the day. Influences come from Lebanon, the Middle East and east Africa. Order mulukhiyah (similar to okra, and stewed with garlic and coriander), ful medames (mashed fava beans), hummus, baba ghanoush, and the full gamut of kebab: shawarma, kofte, shish and falafel. El Hussein does all this perfectly, set in beautiful Arabesque surrounds, 00 20 095 237 6166. Rosetta Restaurant at the Hilton is well priced and has excellent local fish, meat and cheese. Stop by Wenkie’s ice cream parlour for Italy-worthy gelato in the heart of the city, 00 20 12 8894 7380.

Time running out?

Visit the souk for an evening of haggling over linen, pashmina and spices to take home, rounded off by a trip to Oul Kolsoum café, for thick-as-caramel Egyptian coffee.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the Egyptian pound. Time is two hours ahead of GMT. Flight time is 5.5 hours direct from London Heathrow. Cost to carbon-offset is £8.29, visit www.climatecare.org

Getting There

Egyptair flies one direct flight to Luxor each week on a Monday from London Heathrow. Other flights are via Cairo and take about six hours in total, www.egyptair.com

Resources

Egypt Tourism Authority has information on upcoming events, festivals, and more. For more details, visit www.egypt.travel.com