Why go?

Marrakech is endlessly fascinating. It has its hectic side – madding traffic, dusty medina streets heaving with enterprising vendors – but a whole other world exists behind closed doors: tranquil, leafy courtyard gardens, with babbling fountains and refreshing glasses of sweet mint tea. The draw of a break here is less in traditional ‘sights’, and more in the enticing, exotic appeal of exploring the medina, the city’s historic core. Come here for great street food, music and serious shopping in the souk.

What to do

What you really come to Marrakech for is the atmosphere: wander the maze of bustling, ancient alleyways that form the souk, or chat over sticky sweet pastries such as m’hanncha in cafés. Of course, there are some must-see sights, such as the Ben Youssef Medersa, a 16th-century Koranic school that drips in ornate zillij tiling and plaster carvings, or the intricate tombs of the Saadi Dynasty that ruled more than 450 years ago. The palaces impress too: the stark ruins of El Badi, built in 1578, and the lavish Bahia, where vizier Ahmed Ben Moussa lived with his two dozen concubines in the early 1900s. The city’s most important monument, and tallest building, is the Koutoubia Mosque, from which it’s a short stroll to Djemaa El Fna square, the heart of Marrakech. By day it’s full of juice stands, snake charmers and fortune-tellers; by night, it’s a heaving food market, with raucous music and jugglers. The souk begins on its north edge, a tangle of streets with tiny storefronts that seem to sell every possible item, from dyed fabrics and mint for teas to leathers and trinkets. Shopping here is an essential experience, and though at first glance many stores appear to sell similar items, quality varies enormously. Prepare to haggle, but only engage if you’re certain you want to buy. West of the medina are the glitzier shops, restaurants and hotels of the new town, and the iconic Majorelle Garden (jardinmajorelle.com). Characterised by its vivid blue paintwork and collection of rare plants, it was once owned by Yves Saint Laurent and houses a gallery dedicated to the designer.

Where to stay

Consider where you want to be based. Most of the medina is car-free (though not motorbike-free – take care), and if you want to be close to the action of the souk then a riad is the best bet. Owned by a British family, Riad Farnatchi (00 212 524 38 49 10, riadfarnatchi.com) is the city’s most luxurious – all nine spacious suites, most poised around a pool in a central courtyard, feature cavernous baths and terraces, and are serviced by helpful staff. East of Djemaa El-Fna, Dar Fakir offers smaller, though very pretty rooms (00 212 524 44 11 00). If you’re looking to splash out, stay at Royal Mansour (00 212 529 80 80 80, royalmansour.com) – seriously extravagant, this hotel is owned by the Moroccan king, and the decor is suitably palatial. As is the scale – you don’t rent rooms here, but entire, exquisite riads.

Where to eat and drink

In the evening the whole of Marrakech seems to converge around Djemaa El-Fna, where hawkers cook up kebabs, tagines and couscous for eager diners squished in at long rows of tables. If you’re going to eat on the street this is the best place to do it. On the square’s edge is busy Chez Chegrouni 00 212 65 47 46 15. It’s a solid lunch spot serving keftas and couscous, but it’s not a place to linger. For something more laidback, Restaurant Le Tanjia (00 212 24 38 38 36) has a rooftop bar, and specialises in its namesake: beef, slow-cooked in an earthenware pot, served with couscous. An oasis in the heart of the souk, Le Jardin 00 212 524 37 82 95, lejardin.ma serves a Moroccan menu with French accents in its leafy enclave. In the new city, opt for the old school French café ambiance and cuisine of Le Grand Café de la Poste 00 212 524 43 30 38, grandcafedelaposte.restaurant, or the refined, traditional Moroccan cooking at Al Fassia Gueliz 00 212 524 43 40 60, alfassia.com.

Time running out?

Learn to cook your own fragrant tagines at House of Fusion houseoffusionmarrakech.com

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the Moroccan dirham.

Marrakech is in line with GMT and is 3 hours 45 minutes travel time from London.

Getting There

Royal Air Maroc flies from London Heathrow to Marrakech via Casablanca royalairmaroc.com
Easyjet flies to Marrakech from London Gatwick, London Stansted and Manchester. easyjet.com

Resources

Visit Morocco provides information on planning a trip to the North African country visitmorocco.com