Why go?

Captivating, compelling and cool, Berlin is a city of contrasts where past, present and future collide. This once walled city is now an urban metropolis, full of stunning modern art and architecture, fascinating monuments and museums. Wander around a flea market or ride your bike in one of many green parks. It’s hip and happening with nightlife to match, from the slick to-be-seen-in cocktail bars to a smokin’ jazz scene, cutting-edge theatre and the shabby-chic allure of the Turkish and Jewish quarters. Drink in abandoned warehouses; sip cocktails in old bunkers and dance alfresco on outdoor terraces. The days of division have left an anything-goes attitude and an ‘edge’.

What to do

Start early with a visit to the Reichstag to marvel at Norman Foster’s iconic glass dome. Next, head for the triumphant Brandenburger Tor, the grand gateway topped by the Quadriga statue. Make your way from here to Checkpoint Charlie; once a border crossing for non-Germans and Allied forces, the nearby museum preserves poignant memories. Nearby is the Topographie des Terrors (topographie.de), the old headquarters of the Gestapo, and just behind it is a 200-metre stretch of Wall. A short distance away is Peter Eisenman’s Holocaust memorial. A maze of 2,711 tilting steel blocks, it’s moving and disquieting. From here, stroll through the wooded grounds of Tiergarten, Berlin’s largest park, to the Siegessäule (victory column). Climb 285 steps to the top for fantastic views. Warm up later with hot chocolate in a cosy Prenzlauer Berg café like the floral Anna Blume (cafeannablume.de) near Kollwitzplatz in what was East Berlin where boho bars and trendy restaurants are scattered amid lofty 19th-century townhouses.

Where to stay

Designer digs are found in the high-ceilinged stylish new Gorki Apartments between Mitte and Prenzlauer Berg. (gorkiapartments.de), where pale wooden floors, designer tiles and wallpaper meets vintage furniture, providing a chic base. The DORMERO Hotel Berlin Ku'damm (00 49 30 2140 50, dormero.de) is a little oasis of calm, rooms are decked in warm hues and overlook a winter garden. Utterly serene. In the Mitte district, Berlin’s cultural heart, is Lux 11 (00 49 30 9362 800, luxeleven.com). Minimalists will love the white walled modern interiors and Asian flavour. For refined pampering at the top end, the Waldorf Astoria brings NYC art deco style to Charlottenburg, (waldorfastoria3hilton.com) and the Adlon Kempinski presides over Pariser Platz – a rebuilt version of its elegant pre-war self on Unter den Linden. (hoteladlon.de)

Where to eat and drink

Start the day with a big frühstück (breakfast). It is customary to brunch out in Berlin and Ca.B.Slam (California Breakfast Slam) is the place to go for easy over eggs American- style in the up and coming Neukölln district. Good coffee is found in cushioned comfort at the aptly named KaffeeBar moments from the hubbub of Kottbusser Damm (kaffeebarberlin.com), or buy tea from the sophisticated apothecary, You Drink Coffee, I Take Tea, My Dear. For street snacking you can’t beat Berlin’s currywurst: a pork sausage drenched in warm ketchup and curry powder. Try Konnopke’s Imbiss, a stall in Schönhauser Allee under the U-Bahn tracks. In the afternoon, find traditional comfort in the red leather sofas of Café Einstein (cafeeinstein.com), for ‘kaffee und kuchen’. Dinner is a glamorous affair in the plush velvet booths at Pauly Saal, think calf’s terrine with quail egg and sour cherries, Pomeranian beef and wachcau apricot dumpling (paulysaal.com). Glass in Uhlandstrasse is where Gal Ben-Moshe, who trained under Grant Achatz of Alinea, sends out impeccably-plated dishes to a black-table clothed industrial dining room with starters impaled on smoking cinnamon sticks and desserts served direct on the tabletop in honour of his mentor. Have a look at the restaurant on Trip Advisor.

Time running out?

Stroll around Kreuzberg, the centre of ‘alternative’ Berlin. Kottbusser Tor or Little Istanbul is found here with a host of Turkish cafés, and bars. Sip a grappa and soak up the scene.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Germany’s currency is the euro. Time is 1 hour ahead of the UK, and journey time from London is 2 hours. Cost to carbon-offset is £1.70 (climatecare.org).

Getting There

Germanwings (germanwings.com) flies directly from London Heathrow to Berlin Tegel three times daily.
EasyJet (easyjet.com) flies from Luton/Gatwick to Schoenefeld.

Resources

Berlin Tourist Information The tourist office is well-located within the Brandenberg Gate; they also have a superbly helpful website to set you in the right direction. visitberlin.de