St  Aubins  Harbour By Night

St Helier - United Kingdom

Jersey’s capital boasts seaside charm in buckets and spades – Raleigh-era battlements, quayside strolls and fishy feasts are on the menu for James Williams.

Travel Time 1hrs 10min

Why go?

A little outpost of Britishness floating in the English Channel with a laid-back French twist, Jersey is a honeypot of great cooking, long, sandy beaches and ancient castles. St Helier is its cute capital boasting the best of the island – and all less than an hour’s flight from London. The VAT-free shopping is quite handy too.

What to do

The stuff of bucket-and-spade dreams, St Helier has many family friendly – and watersports-friendly – beaches on its doorstep. Elizabeth Castle (jerseyheritage.org) has watched over St Aubin’s Bay from its rocky outcrop for over 400 years and offers fantastic panoramic views. Potter out there at low tide or ride the ferry (part tractor, part boat) when the sea rises to sever it from the mainland. Climb the Raleigh-era battlements, trace the ghosts of the English Civil War and perhaps of St Helier himself, as you ascend the steps to the ancient hermitage. Germans fortified the castle during the Second World War, and in the Maritime Museum stories of this era can be relived with the Bayeux-esque Occupation Tapestry. Upstairs, there are quirky, interactive – and animatronic – sea-themed exhibits. Stroll along the quayside past the giant steam clock and visit Jersey Museum, where you can go back to gaslight as you peek into the recreated rooms of a 19th-century merchant’s house. More history is told through artefacts from a mammoth’s skull to Bronze Age gold. Jersey War Tunnels (01534 860808, jerseywartunnels.com), reached by vintage bus, is a must-visit.

Where to stay

St Helier has hotels to rival any European capital. For boutique chic, check in to The Club (01534 876500, theclubjersey.com), a spa haven with 46 plush rooms and suites, Michelin-starred fine dining and a stylish bistro-bar. Banjo is a brasserie with beds (01534 850890, banjojersey.com), whose Gatsby-style boudoirs have been tastefully furnished by Jersey Pottery’s design team. The setting, a former Victorian gentlemen’s club, could not be grander. Unless of course you are talking about the Grand Jersey (01534 722301, grandjersey.com), offering some of the city’s finest food and drink (see Where to eat), and its most familiar concierge. Hugo has worked at the hotel for 32 of its 124 years and is part of the five-star experience, alongside a blissful spa, private cinema, and luxurious rooms with fine fabrics, rainforest showers and views of the breezy promenade and sea. The beach and castle sit directly opposite.

Where to eat and drink

Yorkshireman and champion of local produce Shaun Rankin earned a Michelin star for seafood-laden Ormer (01534 725100, ormerjersey.com) just four months after opening last year. Sea bass is dressed with baby fennel and Pernod butter; turbot with samphire and sea purslane. The flavours of the sea come across effortlessly. Made famous by BBC’s Great British Menu, his treacle tart with Jersey clotted cream is a gooey, crunchy, indulgent piece of island legend. A short walk away, the affable Tino serves decent Venetian fare – homemade pastas, steaks and crab salads – at La Capannina Restaurant (01534 734602, lacapanninajersey.com). Little Thai is a much-loved local haunt, serving Bangkok’s greatest hits with modern twists, finessed by a keen Thai team (01534 608808). And at local roaster Bean Around the World (01534 619977, beanaroundtheworld.co.uk), a bountiful global selection and tables out on the street puts the high street chains to shame. At Grand Jersey’s Michelin-starred Tassili starters of beetroot mini-macarons add a sugary aside to Iberico ham, cleansed by refreshing beetroot sorbet. A main of lamb is richly dressed with haggis, rocket and tomato. Ginger cake comes with poached rhubarb and native black butter ice cream. The hotel’s Champagne room is the perfect warm up before heading out for an evening in St Helier; or make your way to the back of usually missable Chambers bar and you’ll find the worthwhile, albeit tiny ‘speakeasy’ the Blind Pig – make sure you dress up.

Time running out?

Shaun Rankin’s newest venture is Don Street Deli, next door to Ormer. Stop off and pick up the perfect picnic.

Map

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is sterling and UK money is accepted (NB: Jersey’s notes can’t be used in the UK). Time is GMT, flights from London take 45 minutes. Cost to carbon-offset is 70p (climatecare.org).

Getting There

British Airways (ba.com) has a daily scheduled service flying from London Gatwick to St Helier.
Aurigny (aurigny.com) flies to London daily from St Helier.

Resources

Jersey Tourism (jersey.com) has a range of itineraries for seeing St Helier, alongside tips, offers and the handy Jersey Pass.

Average daily temperatures and rainfall

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Min Temp44579121414131185
Max Temp881013161820211915129
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